Off the Beaten Path: Vancouver Island’s Cowichan Valley

A wine region still undiscovered, offering diversity, innovation, and low-alcohol, food-friendly styles worth seeking out

Admittedly, Cowichan Valley on Vancouver Island is off the radar for most wine tourists, and even for many residents living there. The wine touring lifestyle is not a thing, yet. Even Canadians in Victoria and Vancouver reference Okanagan Valley when I inquire about wine in British Columbia, despite Cowichan’s easy proximity by car and ferry respectively. Apparently, wine is just one aspect of tourism in the valley, albeit an important and promising one.

But there are signs of times a-changing. In fact, members of Jackson Family Wine Group have invested in two properties in Cowichan, and if Willamette Valley is proof of their intentions, it is to elevate the region and hedge their bets on diversity of climate and long-term commitment to fine wine.

Read Also: Navigating the Okanagan Valley: Where to eat, drink, and stay

Cowichan Valley resides in a temperate marine-influenced rain-shadow zone. During its growing season, it’s warm enough to produce grapes, and year-round it’s shielded from the abundance of moisture, freezing and temperature extremes much of the Pacific Northwest experiences. The climate is an ecosystem referred to as the Coastal Douglas-fir zone.

The resulting warm growing days are ideally suited for grape growing. There are 13 wineries at present in this relatively new Sub-G.I. (Geographical Indication) – established in 2020 – within British Columbia. The shift away from hybrid (indigenous grapes) to Vitis vinifera (classic international grapes) continues today due to market demand, although hybrid grape growing still endures and is embraced by some growers.

Saanich Inlet, Vancouver Island.

If you like small batch cool-climate acid-driven food-friendly wine styles, there is certainly something here for you. International Vitis vinifera varieties you may know, and love include pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, and pinot noir, and versions of those as bubbles.

Grapes you may not recognize often include hybrids—grapes created by crossing different species for hardiness and disease resistance—such as cabernet libre, petit milo, and marechal foch. You’ll also find vinifera crosses, which are crosses exclusively between Vitis vinifera varieties, like bacchus and siegerrebe.

Part of the charm is that Cowichan is still an underrated and overlooked region, yet it’s striving for greatness, and right now, that makes for less touristed and enjoyable wine routes to explore.

Cowichan Valley – why it’s worth going

Go for the weather. Cowichan is the only maritime climate zone and has the warmest year–round temperatures in Canada. The weather is reliably temperate. The Indigenous Quw’utsun (Cowichan) people’s name directly translates “to warm one’s back in the sun.” Summers are warm and dry. Winters are mild and wet – ideal for achieving flavour ripeness while coastal breezes preserve acidity and freshness.

Go for the discovery. Experimentation and grape diversity are a hallmark of the history of the region. Wines from both hybrid grapes, crossed grapes and traditional Vitis vinifera can be found at many wineries. Cowichan is a test garden for growing different winegrapes in the same climate and soils and showcasing those results. Small lot production means you will likely not find many of these wines off Vancouver Island and the province of British Columbia.

Go for the low alcohol. Cool climate grape ripening is a challenge. The benefit is that during fermentation lower sugars result in lower alcohol. We tasted several wines ranging from 11% – 13%. Drink more, pair with food, be happy.

Go for the great grape debate. Between 1981 and 1986, more than 150 grape varieties were planted on land that would later become Blue Grouse and Zanatta wineries. The plantings were part of a provincial government trial aimed at exploring grape viability and encouraging development of the B.C. wine industry. The project included traditional Vitis vinifera varieties, as well as hybrids, and vinifera crosses.

Will climate tested hybrid grapes survive in a growing and competitive marketplace? Will the region default to chardonnay and pinot noir? What are the limits to growth and expansion of this tiny region? What wines are proven and should be part of your purchase decisions?

Go for the Bubbles. “Charme de L’Île” — French for “Island Charm” — is a regional term used in the Cowichan Valley to describe tank-fermented sparkling wine made using the Charmat method, the same process used in Prosecco and German Sekt. The name references both the Island’s distinct wine identity and the method itselfYou’ll find Charmat method sparkling at Unsworth, Blue Grouse, Enrico and Averill Creek. Traditional method sparkling wine has been produced at Zanatta for many years.

The future of Cowichan?

Affordable land cost and availability, and access to major population centres like Vancouver, Victoria, Seattle, Portland and the Pacific Northwest should drive interest and eventually growth in the region. Major investments by large wine groups signals opportunity and commitment.

I asked Michael Abbott, GM at Blue Grouse what the future holds for Cowichan wineries. “The Cowichan Valley is entering a defining chapter. With a shifting climate, growing interest in regenerative agriculture, and a deeply rooted sense of place, our future lies in crafting something truly distinctive: wines, food, and experiences that couldn’t come from anywhere else. I see Cowichan becoming a leading voice in Canadian wine, not because we’re the biggest, but because we’re the most intentional. We have a rare chance to grow with integrity, creativity, and community at the core.”

Wineries worth visiting

Use the links provided for current season tasting room hours, experiences, and available services.

Enrico Winery – Fun with “Hybrids”

Harry Smith, former hockey star and founder, purchased this cattle and sheep ranch in 1989 and planted wine grapes. The first harvest didn’t happen until 2007, and today’s business model didn’t happen until timberman Lorin Inglis took over as GM of the operation in 2012. This is a 54-acre property (22 acres under vine).

Lorin weighs the pros and cons of hybrid grapes. “Do we want to be compared to or be more distinct as a region? For me, that was one of the questions when I was making the decision of planting Hybrid varietals. Do we want to be just another pinot noir region, yes, a little different because of weather and soil conditions and the clones used, but the most common comment would be that it reminds me of an Oregon Willamette Valley pinot or compared to Okanagan.”

I liked the sense of innovation and brand differentiation and messaging here. In addition to bottle purchases, wine in cans is in demand.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – The Tempest (Ortega) White Wine.

The tasting room view at Blue Grouse Estate Winery. (Photo: Tourism Cowichan)

Blue Grouse Estate Winery – Bottled history

Blue Grouse was the second vineyard planted in the late 1980s, and the winery was founded in 1992. Like many farming properties in the valley, it maintained orchards, vegetables and dairy cows. Blue Grouse was part of the grapes testing project that took place from 1981 to 1985. See Blue Grouse history for more information.

Members of Jackson Family Wines of Napa Valley purchased Blue Grouse in 2022, and have demonstrated collaboration with the region and a commitment to sustainability and constant improvement in management practices and human relations. GM Michael Abbott cites examples including rainwater capture and pond storage for treatment and irrigation; geothermal heating and cooling of tasting room and winery buildings; organic and regenerative farming practices in the vineyard; and other Leeds, B-Corp best practices in their operations.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Cowichan Valley Ortega. White Wine.

Read about Winemaker Stacy Hornemann in this Wine Characters Interview

Venturi-Schulze Balsamic Cellar.

Venturi-Schulze Vineyards – Wines and balsamic

The Venturi-Schulze Family purchased their property in 1987. It was a farmhouse built around 1887 and perfect for them. Giordano Venturi grew up in Modena, Italy the ancestral home of Balsamic vinegar, where he and his wife Marilyn (Schulze) launched the winery and the largest traditional method balsamic production on the west coast of North America. Visit for both their wines and the balsamic vinegars (note that the word vine-gar is derived from vine, as in grapevine.

Most of their wine is consumed locally, but the balsamic vinegars can ship internationally as they are not alcohol, but trust me, just as appealing. Check the website for recipes. The “Classic” ages for 11-15 years and the “Legacy” for 20-35 years in a “Solera” system. Yes, that one, the system used to age Sherry wine in southern Spain. It is likely that Giordano and Marilyn’s daughter Michelle will tour and taste you. She’s a winegrower with many hats, and you’ll be in for a treat. Be sure to ask for the Balsamic room.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – “From the Before Time” Pinot Noir

Read about Winegrower Michelle Willcock Schulze in this Wine Characters Interview

Cherry Point Estate Winery. (Photo: Tourism Cowichan)

Cherry Point Estate – Special events

Cherry Point’s proximity to the ocean in Cobble Hill is evident as soon as you step foot on the property. It’s one of the older and largest vineyards (at this time) in Cowichan, purchased by the Bonilla Family in 1990. The winery hosts charity and social events at The Bistro during summer months, and the Garden Pavillion in winter. They are known for the annual Paella event. Weddings and private group events are a hallmark of the winery.

You’ll find interesting whites including gewürztraminer, pinot gris, pinot blanc, ortega, siegerrebe, and epicure. Reds include pinot noir, zweigelt, cabernet libre, agria, and castel. Owner and winemaker Xavier loved experimenting and you can experience his panoply of hybrids, crosses and Vinifera grape varieties. Ask Xavier for a quick vineyard tour before your tasting.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Old Vines Siegerrebe

Unsworth Vineyards.

Unsworth Vineyards – Canada’s Provence

The Turyk family purchased the land in 2009. It an interesting history, especially in light of the recent acquisition by Jackson Family Wines of California.

We were jazzed to have lunch with Chris Turyk, son of founders Tim and Colleen. Chris is a hoot, and if you see him around, do engage. The winery has one of the few full-service restaurants in Cowichan Valley, a restored 1900s farmhouse and now The Restaurant at Unsworth. It’s a great way to dine and try their “Island Wines”.

Chris shared that wine production will significantly increase from an estimated 10K to 50K cases over the next several years as their new 43-acre vineyard begins to produce. The tasting room itself will accommodate more guests, and plans for enhanced wine club offerings are already in the works.

I mentioned Charme de L’Île sparkling wine earlier in this report, and Unsworth is one of the wineries that promoted the original branding, which requires that all bubbles be produced from Vancouver Island fruit, and use the Charmat method (tank fermentation).

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Cowichan Valley Pinot Noir

Read about Winemaker Dan Wright in this Wine Characters Interview

Zanatta Winery – The pioneers

Dennis Zanatta purchased 120 acres of dairy farmland located near the city of Duncan and planted 25 acres to grapevines in 1981. The provincial government used one acre for its hybrid grape test garden project, dubbed the “Duncan Project” which lasted until 1986. His daughter Loretta Zanatta and winemaker Jim Moody run the winery today.

Zanatta was the first winery established on Vancouver Island in 1992, when the provincial government finally allowed small growers to establish wineries and sell their wares. Today, they produce 2,500 cases primarily sold from the old farmhouse tasting room and veranda to longtime customers.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Damasco white blend

Read about Winemaker Jim Moody in this Wine Characters Interview

Alderlea Vineyards – Building a legacy

Julie Powell and Zachary Brown acquired Alderlea (Alder meadow in Old English) in 2017. Alderlea was the 4^th vineyard planted in Cowichan back in 1993. Julie and Zac are a 4,000 case two-person operation, with Zac handling winemaking and Julie running marketing and tasting room operations, as well as heading up the Cowichan Wine Society, a good resource for trip planning www.cowichanwineries.com.

Zac and Julie’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond growing practices. You can read more about their sustainability and community practices here.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Pinot Gris

Read about Winemaker Zac Brown in this Wine Characters Interview

Emandare Vineyard – Dare to try

Robin and Mike Nierychlo dared to pursue their dreams against all odds – living on and farming 8.5 acres of wine grapes and raising a family in the Cowichan Valley. Emandare (pronounced M and Dare) is the fulfillment of that aspiration. 1,000 case production sustains production costs, raising two daughters and Mike’s golfing habit. Mike describes himself as late 2^nd stage of the Cowichan wine scene, having purchased their patch of land in 2013. He’s looking forward to mentoring the next young generation.

Emandare Vineyard sits on south facing slopes in the rain shadow of Mount Prevost overlooking Somenos Lake. When you visit, you will immediately feel Mike’s passion for the land – where he and the family live – and of course for minimal intervention winemaking. He leads all tours and tastings himself. In fact, you’ll want to email Mike direct to arrange an appointment for your visit.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Estate Pinot Noir

Averill Creek – Go with the Classics

Andy Johnston of Averill Creek showed up on the scene and changed the wine game in 2001 when he tore up a mountainside and planted 30 acres of chardonnay and pinot noir 10 miles from Cowichan Bay, setting the stage for future growth and region recognition.

Winemaker Brent Rowland joined him in 2018 bringing international experience making world class wines. When asked about the future, he stakes his claim, “Vitis Vinifera is what Vancouver Island is all about”. Brent’s winemaking style is as close to “natural” wine as you can get – unfined, unfiltered, wild fermentations and 100 percent whole cluster, all the time – while still achieving quality results. His wines show perfume and nuance, not bold fruits, because that is how chardonnay and pinot perform in this climate.

The one wine most emblematic of the brand – Somenos Pinot Noir

Read about Winemaker Brent Rowland in this Wine Characters Interview

Check out these websites for more info, planning and touring resources, information, wine trails, maps and details on the Cowichan Valley Wine Festival held annually in August.

Tourism Cowichan https://www.tourismcowichan.com/
Wineries and Wine Trails map https://www.tourismcowichan.com/eat-drink/wineries/
Cowichan Wineries Society https://www.cowichanwineries.com/

Carl Giavanti is a recovering winery publicist with a passion for people and storytelling. After 15 years of PR consulting, wine business writing, and interviewing wine writers, Carl is laser focused on wine travel writing, and interviewing winemakers for his Wine Characters project. Click here to learn more about Carl, and visit his Author Pages and platforms https://linktr.ee/carlgiavanti.