Native grapes and organic practices are driving a transformation in Italy’s largest wine-producing region
Sicily stands tall among Italy’s top wine-producing regions—not just for its scale, but for the extraordinary transformation it has undergone.
As Italy’s largest wine region, with 23 DOCs, one DOCG, and nearly a quarter million acres under vine, Sicily was once associated with mass production and bulk exports. But over the past two decades, the island has shifted dramatically toward quality, terroir-driven wines that are now earning international acclaim—including growing attention here in Canada.
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This vast Mediterranean island is no ordinary wine region. Sicily is a land shaped by fire and wind, by centuries of winemaking tradition, and by extreme natural conditions that test both vine and vintner. From the high-altitude slopes of Mount Etna to the sun-baked volcanic rock of Pantelleria, Sicilian wine is born of hardship, yet full of character, tension, and beauty. The best examples reflect a sense of place as vivid as any in the world.
Volcanic vines and island extremes
During a recent visit to Sicily, I witnessed this diversity firsthand. On Etna, terraced vineyards reach toward the summit of Europe’s most active volcano, some approaching 1,000 metres above sea level. One of Sicily’s most prized white grapes, carricante, thrives here, yielding whites that are flinty, citrus-charged, and laced with wild Mediterranean herbs and mineral energy.
A world away, but still under Sicily’s wing, the island of Pantelleria— 100 km from Sicily and just 60 km from the African coast—produces wines of astonishing power and perfume from zibibbo grapes grown in wind-scoured, volcanic soils. These are not easy wines to make, but as any great wine region shows: difficulty breeds greatness.
The harvest team at Donnafugata.
Across Sicily, producers are embracing native varieties like the bold and structured nero d’avola, the ethereal and savoury nerello mascalese, and bright, mineral-driven whites such as grillo, catarratto, and the above mentioned carricante, while also coaxing new expressions from international grapes such as syrah and chardonnay. Organic farming is increasingly the norm, and winemakers are leaning into minimal intervention to let the terroir speak clearly in the glass.
And wine drinkers are responding, particularly Canadian wine drinkers. In 2024, exports of Sicilian red wines to Canada jumped by 22 percent, and white wines by 11 percent, with more bottlings landing at the LCBO and top restaurants across Ontario and beyond. For those seeking value, character, and authenticity, Sicily delivers on all fronts.
Etna’s white hot carricante
Some of the most compelling carricante-based wines I tasted include:
Tornatore Zottorinotto 2021
100% carricante from Etna Bianco DOC; sleek and powerful, ripe orchard fruit and spice with laser-like acidity and a flinty core. Pair with swordfish carpaccio, grilled calamari, or Sicilian lemon chicken.
Tornatore Pietrarizzo Bianco 2022
A single-site carricante showcasing stone fruit, floral blossom, steely minerality, and a salty edge. Pair with fresh oysters, seared scallops, or ricotta-stuffed zucchini flowers.
Vivera Salisire Contrada Martinella 2019
High-altitude carricante; fragrant with ripe apple, pastry, and sea breeze. Vibrant and textured with great energy. Pair with baked seabass with fennel, or citrus risotto.
Terra Costantino deAetna Etna Bianco 2023
80% carricante, 15% catarratto, 5% minnella. Expressive, structured, and beautifully balanced. Complex bouquet with stone fruit, orchard fruit, pastries, and Mediterranean floral notes. Pair with grilled octopus, shrimp risotto, or aged caciocavallo.
Terra Costantino Contrada Blandano Etna Bianco 2021
90% carricante, 10% catarratto. Zesty, layered stone fruit with excellent length. Pair with tuna tartare, herb-roasted chicken, or Sicilian caponata.
A view of Tornatore.
West coast whites: grillo and catarratto
Wines made from grillo, known for its citrusy zip and coastal freshness, and catarratto, prized for its acidity and body, also impressed:
Donnafugata Passiperduti 2024
100% grillo from Sicilia DOC; floral, citrusy, and coastal. Pair with caprese salad, shrimp linguine, or couscous with lemon and mint.
Alessandro Di Camporeale Monreale Catarrato 2023
100% catarratto extra lucido (“extra lucido” meaning extra shiny, referring to the polished appearance of the grape skins, which lack the usual whitish bloom found on other catarratto varieties. This rare clone is known for producing wines that are more delicate, fresh, and textured than the common Catarratto.)
From the estate’s oldest vineyard on a breezy hilltop in Contrada Mandranova (Monreale DOC), this elegant white bursts with a complex bouquet of orchard fruit, sweet spices, mandarin, and Mediterranean herbs. The palate is textured, harmonious, and impressively complete. Pair with grilled swordfish with citrus-herb salsa, or Sicilian orange and fennel salad with toasted almonds. The wine’s freshness and layered citrus notes beautifully echo the coastal flavours of western Sicily while complementing oily fish or zesty Mediterranean starters.
Francesco and Enrica Spadafora.
At Spadafora, southwest of Palermo, I met Francesco and Enrica Spadafora at their family-run estate. Their organic methods and clever “mustache and tail” thinning technique deliver standout results in their premium, yet accessible wines. All wines in their portfolio are fermented all the way leaving no residual sugar, and all undergo malolactic fermentation to add additional texture which is evident when you taste them. Some include:
Spadafora Don Pietro Bianco 2024
A mineral-driven 100% catarratto from Monreale DOC. Complex orchard fruit, brioche, and herbs. The palate repeats with savoury orchard fruit, Mediterranean herbs, and minerality persisting. Pair with pasta alle vongole, lemon-herb grilled chicken, or fried artichokes.
Principe G 2022
100% grillo, four days skin contact, lees aging and stirring for one month, fermented in concrete and aged in stainless steel creating a layered, autolytic, and expressive wine that’s fragrant, with expressive floral, yellow fruit and Mediterranean herb finish. Pair with roast poultry, aged pecorino, or creamy seafood pasta.
(Photo: Matt Steeves)
Reds with soul: nerello mascalese and beyond
Nerello mascalese, often likened to pinot noir for its pale colour and aromatic nuance, stood out among Sicilian reds:
Benanti Contrada Monte Serra 2023 Etna Rosso DOC
Elegant with red cherry, plum, sandalwood, and volcanic spice. Harmonious and refreshing. Pair with mushroom risotto, grilled lamb chops, or Sicilian eggplant parmigiana.
Girolamo Russo San Lorenzo Piano Delle Colombe 2022 Etna Rosso DOC
Plum, spice, graphite. Powerful, with great structure for long term aging. Patience will reward. Pair with wild boar ragu, roast duck, or grilled beef tagliata.
Graci Arcuria “Sopra Il Pozzo” 2020
Perfumed, structured, deeply mineral. Brandied cherries, plum, spice, leather, sandalwood. Complex and simply outstanding. Pair with veal involtini, porcini tagliatelle, or grilled lamb with rosemary.
Donnafugata Cuordilava Dolce & Gabbana 2020
100% nerello mascalese Etna Rosso DOC – Garnet colour, the nose brings expressive brandied cherry, cola, sweet spices, figs, and sandalwood. Luscious and refreshing with polished tannins and a deep core of fruit and spice. Pair with Slow-braised lamb shanks with rosemary and Sicilian olives, or wild mushroom risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano. The wine’s depth, warm spice, and polished texture beautifully complement earthy, umami-rich dishes and bold Mediterranean flavours.
Another red not to miss:
Gulfi Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico
70% nero d’avola and 30% frappato; Ruby colour, complex profile with plum, floral cherry, chocolate, balsamic, with bright acidity and charm. Pair with pork tenderloin, tomato-based pasta, or grilled sausage and peppers.
Pantelleria.
The Jewel of Pantelleria
The Island of Pantelleria is located 100 km off Sicily’s coast and just 60 km off the African coast. This small island is pure volcanic rock formed over the past 500,000 years. Its harsh climate produces one of the Mediterranean’s most prized sweet wines which requires significant effort and the cooperation of Mother Nature to produce each vintage. Iconic Sicilian producer, Donnafugata, produces a delicious passito dessert wine from their Pantelleria estate which is unbelievable given the challenging growing conditions on this old volcanic island.
Donnafugata Ben Ryé 2022
Made from a combination of freshly picked and sun-dried zibibbo grapes from the wind-swept low bush vines on the rugged volcanic terraced slopes of Pantelleria. It’s lusciously sweet, yet balanced with refreshing apricot, orange peel, tropical fruit, and Mediterranean herbs. Pair with Sicilian cannoli, aged blue cheese, or almond biscotti.
Matt Steeves is a Canadian Wine Writer, On-Air Sommelier (TV, radio), Valpolicella Wine Specialist, and former Director with the National Capital Sommelier Guild – follow Matt on Instagram @Quercusvino & www.quercusvino.ca & www.topwines.ca
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